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- Point: Rishi doesn't like the lapping of the two metal pieces; why not just make it one piece
- It's easy to bend that metal, take it to doro
- Point: Because of the alignment issues, a force will be induced on one of the sides (if the axis of the motor is off by even a bit)
- Point: Thickness of the walls is too low, they will twist with any kind of side load
- Even with the standoffs
- Point: Rishi would just machine it out of a block of aluminum for high precision
- Leave a wall of aluminum instead of the standoffs - ping
- Point: not too difficult to make on a mill, do not go for the lapping of the two metal pieces
- Any movement on the bronze bearing(s) is going to translate to the box tube, but if the gears don't maintain their spacing it will cause issues
- Motor + gearbox assembly is only fastened on one side, which results in the sheet metal bending
- There will be times when one motor is working in the opposite direction (of the other?) but this will cause significant bending
- May want to look into a wyrm worm gear
- The alignment issues are difficult to resolve
- Put a u-shaped piece of sheet metal around the motors to secure them, like a lid
- Try adding internal flanges on the two side plates to give them internal stiffness
- Do not use hex standoffs for the encoder mount, or at least use more/make the pieces wider and more rigid
- Point: They definitely see the sides where the pulleys are, where the bronze bearings are, flexing away from each other
- Run a smaller shaft between the two gears to keep them aligned
- connect the two differential gears in some way
- Point: add washers... everywhere, except for shaft collars
- Change from box tube, or use a smaller box tube
- Put a lid on the box tube, and then you'll be able to add additional support for the end effector however you want
- Ping likes the current design (3 gears) over the other design mentioned/showed (2 gears), just make sure to connect the two shafts (instead of the current shaft going from the middle gear to the shaft collar)
- Ping was worried about some type of enclosure, but as long as it is not run in a dirty environment it is fine
- TL;DR:
- Anything that adds more internal stiffness is good
- Pulleys are supported in one direction, creating a cantilever
- Get rid of the overlapping place
- Get rid of thestandoffsthe standoffs, turn into blocks with dowel holes
- Put flanges on the end of the ...Put one dowel hole at the end of where it's being mounted to the rest of the arm
- Use dowel holes for alignment
- All of the "white spacers" are just saying that the box tube can be smaller.
- Turn standoffs into blocks with dowel holes
- Slots for tensioning will be easier, but even with slots, it's difficlt difficult to support the other side of the tensioning/motor